Back to Michelangelo…on the Via Guilia at the back of the great Renaissance Palace Farnese is this lovely arch designed by the man himself. Palazzo Farnese is one of, if not the, most beautiful Renaissance palaces in all of Rome or anywhere. Michelangelo had his hand in some of the design, consider the facade and the balcony.

But here the arch was the beginning of a bridge that would cross the Tiber River to the Trastevere side. This way the Farnese would have their own private path across but alas this was never completed.

Here you are at the crossing of the great transept and nave. Bernini’s bronze, spiraling baldacchino is on your left - that is another story. But look up to the round mosaic on the corner…the right hand of the figure is holding a quill pen….that pen is 5 feet long. That maybe can give you some sense of size. Or maybe not…

Enter the nave of St. Peter’s. The nave leads down to the transept or cross bar of this Latin cross layout,  if you will. So this church is built on a Latin cross plan, the cross is the universal symbol of the “bridge” between realms - here and the divine. Yes it is a universal symbol an archetype.

Here is a great example of the “external” dome designed by Michelangelo - (hence his portrait on top) an egg shape - to be enjoyed from outside. Because once you get inside, in this case, the scale is so large you cannot get a  handle on the enormous size of this church. St. Peter’s is called a basilica - a floor plan that originated with the ancient Romans.

PS not all churches are cathedrals - but you know that. A cathedra is a chair for a resident bishop. If a bishop’s home church will have a cathedra thus these churches are cathedrals. St. Peters is not the resident church of the Pope - well he does live next door however. Oh…just go to St John of Lanteran to see the home church.

Once up there you will have this stunning view out between the curved arms of Bernini’s colonnade. Dont’ get mixed up Bernini (the trouble maker) was busy during the Baroque Period - think 1600. But the arms do make a lovely embrace of the crowds.

A great name for a great artist - maybe not such a nice guy - but quite a talent. He lived from 1475-1564. Michelangelo, as we best know him, lived in the period of the High Renaissance, think in general the 1500s. Most people head to the Vatican to see his Sistine Chapel, which is mind-blowing. But you can find bits of him in many parts of Rome.

To see this portrait you need to ascend to the roof of St. Peters and before you begin climbing up his dome you will see his face here.

I think he is warning you about the climb…are you sure you are up to it? You will find yourself wedged between 2 domes, the inside supporting one and the outside glorious one. The curvature of the domes will force you to curve your body to the right as you ascend. Take your time, the view is worth the climb.

The “Broken Bridge” or Ponte Rotto isn’t far from the Ponte Sisto. Built in the 2nd centure bce the oldest stone Roman bridge or what is left of it. Once it connected Trastevere to the Forum Boarium, or the cattle market. On the Forum side if you look at the river bank you will find the “Great Drain” exit. The Cloaca Maxima is responsible for draining the Roman Forum of it’s marshy waters. This ancient sewer system was initiated in 600bce during the period of the Kings!

The Ponte Sisto spans the Tiber River linking Trastevere to Rome’s historic center. Built between 1473-1479 commissioned by Pope Sixtus IV. It is a footbridge and every morning when I would leave my apartment I would cross this bridge with gratitude for the opportunity to live in Rome. Built in the period of the High Renaissance too, think Michelangelo and Raphael! 

Pizza capriciosa!!! I think my favorite! But there are so many to choose from. Capriciosa means capricious pizza…impulsive pizza! And why not have a sunny side egg in the middle with olives and artichokes and mushrooms and tomato too. Always there is a meat as well but that changes from place to place as do some of the other ingredients. This one has sausage but prosciutto is lovely. And some peas are also a nice addition. So go ahead be impulsive!

Continue past the Tarpeian Rock and you will have a different view of the Roman Forum than most people will see. The Temple of Saturn to your right and the Temple of Vespasian on your left with the Arch of Septimius Severus ahead.